12.12.2011

the good ole days


evans, '65


give 'em hell Kim!!!!


A good friend, an incredible chef, a mentor, and a fucking bad ass, Kim Alter is oh, so, very close to the opening of her new spot; Haven.
Pictured here along side her exceptionally stylish Scandanavian rain boots, are some freshly dug potatoes. David Little's
potatoes to be exact. The best damn spuds I ever laid my chops on. Anyone who has talked to him will tell you, he is ever so adamant about dry farming them. His results are unrivaled... just ask Keller or Kostow; two stops on his weekly delivery route.
Just before my departure from the company, we ventured north to gather some for an upcoming dinner. 90 pounds deep, standing in the middle of the field, in the rain, we pondered what their future had in store for them. Jokingly, I referenced the piquant pickled potatoes I ravenously bob for in the murky vinegary depths of the jalapeƱos at the taqueria. "With some pork belly maybe?...salty, fatty, meaty, starchy, tangy, spicy? Mmmm." "What about pickling some, shredding them, and making pancakes with them?" She shot back without hesitation. "Like latkes?" I asked. "With pork?" I winced. A cheeky smile came over her face and I knew that was it. I was tickled that I got to witness a lil tad of her menu development. Her fearless creativity is refreshing. Her food always has a message, sometimes playful, sometimes not. It's bold, it's definitely original, and above all else, it's delicious.
She ended up pickling half of the potatoes she used in the latkes, leaving the other half plain, giving each bite an ever so slight complexity that only she would dream up. A master of conjuring up dishes that may appear simple at first glance, one should never assume this is the case. Creating a plain, rustic dish is easy, as is making one complex and over the top. But harmoniously combining the two into something approachable, unpretentious and craveable is a feat that she has mastered.

This is just a snippet of why I know she's goin places. We're watchin you Ms. Alter. Give 'em hell!!!!!!!!!